Walking into a
crowded bar in Madrid wearing a Barcelona jersey is like jumping into a shark
tank with a cinderblock tied to your waste; it’s just not smart. In fact, there
are few things dumber, or more pompously arrogant than wearing the colors of a
rival team (borderline gang) into enemy territory.
This is exactly what I did
on one of my nights in Madrid. I wore my Barcelona home jersey into a rowdy bar
in the heart of Madrid on a Friday night at the request of my Cataluñan
friends.
The
Madrid-Barcelona rivalry is well-known. Like many rivalries, the never-ending, symbolic battle between the two
teams represents much more than just a competitive rivalry, it’s a politically feuled struggle between two warring factions, the historic monarchy of Madrid and the
Spanish empire against the rebellious underdog Catalonia, and their desired
autonomy and sovereignty.
In Barcelona, if
you even remotely mention a slight criticism of FCB, you will never hear the
end of it.
One night, while
watching an FCB game with Julian, my Catálan friend, I made the mistake of
asking if Barcelona had any weaknesses, because according to him, they had
none. Just as he began to answer, the other team scored, and before I knew it,
Julian would not watch any FCB games with me for two weeks, out of fear that I
was bad luck, and a traitor for assuming that FCB had weaknesses.
Another night, I
was watching a game with a group of American friends and one made the mistake of wearing a shirt
with a cartoon-ized picture of Ronaldo, the notoriously arrogant, high scoring Portuguese
star of Real Madrid, playing fútbol with Homer Simpson. Upon standing up from
his seat, a man noticed his shirt, and immediately after calling attention to
it, it was as if a group of sharks smelled blood in the water. My friend was
the injured baby seal, in a frenzy of patriotic Cataluñan sharks.
To the people of
Cataluña and Barcelona, fútbol is more than a sport—it’s a politically and historically
significant symbol that represents the culture crushing years of Franco’s
dictatorship and historic oppression of Cataluña by the Spanish government. It’s
a very passionate subject to say the very least.
Surprisingly, upon walking
into that Madrileño bar with my Barcelona ‘blau-grana,’ nothing
happened. I didn’t get lynched, incite a riot, or get in any physical fights (a
few heated debates, but nothing out of the norm). Honestly, I was kind of disappointed
at how little the people seemed to care about what originally seemed to be a massive rivalry
worth dying over. It just wasn´t a very big deal in Madrid.
Rivalries, I
realized, are always much different in the eyes of the underdog. For the people
of Cataluña, the FCB –Real Madrid rivalry represents a modern day war, where
players are soldiers that fight with goals and slide tackles instead of guns
and bombs. For them it’s a message to Spain, and the rest of the world, that
Cataluña isn’t just a part of Spain, but it’s own respective country.
For Madrid and
Madridleños, FCB and Cataluña is just another defiant colony, squirming resistantly
underneath the colonial fist of the Spanish empire. Madrid loves their fútbol,
I got yelled at enough to know not to wear my FCB jersey there again, and the
glares from across the room made me want to return home, but by the end of the
night, I was friends with nearly everyone in the bar. Madrid, on average, began
to seem like a friendlier place in general.
Opression is
subjective. Opression, from the view of the oppressor, is insignificant.
Opression, from the view of the oppressed however, is incredibly significant.
The rivalry between FCB and Real Madrid exemplifies this perfectly, and when it
comes down to it, seeing just one perspective will never tell the entire story.
Upon explaining
the rivalry from the perspective of Barcelona and asking what fútbol meant to
Barcelona, Julian, with a fire in his eyes that I had never seen before, told
me that, “Spain can take our land, and our language, but they can never take
our fútbol.”
After asking the
same question to one of my new Spanish friends in Madrid, he replied with, “Well,
I love Real Madrid, but more importantly, want another beer?”
Personally, I rather just watch a Sharks game.
Palabra del día: Rivalridad - Rivalry
En Madrid, la rivalridad fue muy debíl. In Madrid, the rivalry was very weak.
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